FORMENTERA - ES CALÓ DE SANT AGUSTI - CAN RAFALET
RESTAURANT CAN RAFALET
Tonight, my birthday dinner was mixed paella, finished with a hierbas liquor from the Balearic Islands, and served "on la casa" by the friendly restaurant staff. The place I chose for this orgy was Can Rafalet in Es Calo de Sant Agustí, which boasts the prettiest views on the Island.
The sea is at its turquoise best here, and I like the paella. Other places serve rice with "some things in it," but this place serves a paella worth its salt, studded with meat and seafood.
You are served a delicious aioli loaded with garlic, the obligatory olives, and a basket of crusty rolls as soon as you sit down. The aioli is proper garlicky, and the rolls are used to scoop up the dip, which was first introduced by the Roman emperor Nero in between his fiddle lessons.
I knew exactly what I wanted and felt confident enough to order in Spanish: "Por favor, tomar me paella mixta. "Since you can only order paella for two, I had to eat it myself!
Because my friend Bernadette does not eat meat or fish, she settled for a delicious Ensalada de queso de cabra (goat cheese salad).
It was terrific, and the view wasn't bad either.
As you can see, the view is outstanding.
This was the best paella I have had in a restaurant on the Island. The saffron and the seafood, fish, and chicken beautifully fused the flavours.
After finishing, I asked the astonished waiters whether this was for one or two people when they found an empty pan. I was messing with them, and besides, it was my birthday, and the day demanded an excess of some kind. The waiter boasted his grandmother's paella was the best "por supuesto", I exclaimed. (of course)
When they found out I was from California and were visibly impressed (I even sang them a Beach Boys song), we were plied with copious amounts of hierbas, the local potent liquor. So we stumbled back home just down the road, drunk and stuffed (at least I was) and swearing not to eat or drink anything for at least 24 hours.
All kinds of fish and seafood are available here, all of excellent quality.
The Bullit de peix is also very good.
The restaurant has been here for many years, serving the traditional food of the Island.
To avoid confusion, there are two places side by side here, both with lovely sea views:
1) Cafe Rafalet, which is part of the hostal Rafalet
2) Restaurant Can Rafalet
If you want tapas and "pan con Cosas" and a good breakfast, you go to Cafe Rafalet. They don't make table reservations. If you want one of the various paella/rice dishes, you should book a table in the first row to have the best sea view at:
RESTAURANT CAN RAFALET
Carrer Sant Agustí 1, 07872 Es Caló, Formentera +34 971 32 70 77 www.restaurantcanrafalet.com
Open 13:00 - 23:30 from 26th May - 30th September.
Words © Jonathon Lipsin
Returning to the Island made Jonathon relive his early favourites in music. Some of them are here.
A mix for Bernadette's "The Blues Lady of Formentera."
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