DONOSTIA-SAN SEBASTIÁN - PINTXO BAR CRAWL

For this visit to San Sebastian in early December, we concentrated on pintxos rather than sit-down meals. We started our pintxo tour in Parte Viejo (the old town). We always prefer hot pintxos, as they are made to order. The pintxos on the bar are not a problem, but you may eat too much bread!

We tend to have no more than two pintxos and a glass of wine or beer per bar, so we don't get too full too early. The best time to visit the pintxo bars is 8.30 —10.30 p.m.

We stayed in the Hotel Niza, set opposite Playa de La Concha.

Which has terrific views from the bedroom balcony.

We then strolled along the promenade and made our way to the old town

Parte Vieja

Our first stop is always,

BAR PACO BUENO

Calle Mayor, 6, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

This old-school, social club-style bar is big on boxing and rugby. It is run by owner Paco Bueno (a boxer) and his sons. The speciality is deep-fried gambas (wait for them to come up hot)

GANDARIAS JATETXEA 31 de Agosto Kalea, 23, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

More excellent old-style pintxos are served in this always buzzing bar. We had the house special, solomillo and pimientos. There is also a Restaurant where the must-have is Vaca Vieja txuleton (old cow rib-eye steak). You must try the house red, the excellent Marques Vitoria (€1.70 a glass).

LA CUCHARA DE SAN TELMO 31 de Agosto Kalea 28, 20003 Corr de San Telmo, Donostia-San Sebastián

This bar is in a side alleyway off of Calle de 31 Augusto. Where you will not see any cold pintxos set out on the bar; all the pintxos here are hot (made to order), and you order from the blackboard menu behind the bar. We had the foie, salteado compota manzana (foie gras sauteed with apple sauce)

And cochinillo (suckling pig, which is not always advertised, so you may have to ask for it).

GANBARA JATETXEA San Jerónimo Kalea 19, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

Famous for its seasonal specialities, like the barra setas plancha (mushroom plate with egg yolk). It was expensive but worth it. You'll never taste anything so pure and umami-laden.

BAR TXEPETXA Arrandegi Kalea 5, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

You may have second thoughts when you walk into this traditional bar and see all the retro, ceramic anchovy pintxos displayed on the bar. Don't. All the anchovy/boquerone pintxos here are made to order. You pick from the variety of toppings on the fish-shaped menu boards at the back of the bar.

We had our favourite. crema de centollo (anchovy toast with cream of spider crab)

but others, like foie y compota Manzana (anchovy toast with foie gras and apple puree) and the famous La Gilda, are also excellent. Always drink Txakoli with these pintxos.

BAR NESTOR Arrandegi Kalea 11, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián This bar is famous for its single tortilla, which serves 16 people, and you must book it in advance. The tomato salad and legendary txuleta (old cow T-bone steak) are also delicious. However, since we were on a pintxo tour, the txuleta would have been too much, so we only had the tomatoes, peppers, and a glass of red wine.

BAR SPORT Fermín Calbetón Kalea 10, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

True to its name, this bar is particularly popular during sporting events, but it offers some beautifully assembled pintxos throughout the week. Popular with the locals and with its rustic interior, Bar Sport represents a traditional Basque eating experience, brought to perfection by its delicious wines and sangria. We had the hot pintxos of foie

Chiperon.

Bar Sport is open a little later than most bars.

BORDA BERRI Fermín Calbetón Kalea 12, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

Here, we had the kebabs (yes, it says kebab, but it's going to be one of the best ribs you have ever had)

and risotto, glutards be warned, risotto in San Sebastián is made with orzo (pasta), not rice.

The day's specials are quickly wiped off the menu board.

BAR LA VIÑA 31 de Agosto Kalea, 3, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastián

For dessert, we always arrive here. It is said they serve the best tarta de queso (cheesecake) in the world here. It is slightly different from other cheesecakes, as it's fluffy and lighter. It is creamy but not too heavy. They sell many of them, and you should try them (you get two slices in one portion).

The other pintxos are tasty, but it's the cheesecake we always come for.

SIRIMIRI ATARI GASTROTEKA Calle Mayor 18, 20013 Donostia-San Sebastián

We finished the evening at this buzzy and lively bar. Good food, but we were only here for the cocktails and GnTs.

The next day, we tried a few pintxos in the newer part of town.

BAR CIABOGA Easo Kalea, 9, 20006 Donostia-San Sebastián

It is a tiny bar that excels at one thing: patatas al ajillo (garlic potatoes). It is the best in town.

ZAZPI GASTROBAR San Martzial Kalea 7, 2005 Donostia-San Sebastián

The food was delicious and of great value in a town of excellent pintxo bars. We started with a cana; we then had txuleta pintxo

and Arroz Temporada with truffles

carrillera (pork cheeks)

and ravioli. The staff were friendly and helpful.

ANTONIO BAR Bergara Kalea 3, 20005 Donostia-San Sebastián The hongos del pais con yema de huevo y foie (porcini mushrooms with egg & foie gras) is worth going for alone. Although we've had similar dishes elsewhere, we went traditional with the txistorra

and gabardina

with a glass of verdejo. It's a few blocks from the old town, but it is worth the trip.

We then crossed the river to the Gros area and Playa de Zurrioa.

To an old favourite

BAR RESTAURANTE HIDALGO 56 Paseo colón, 15, 20002 Donostia-San Sebastián

To have the incredible volcán de morcilla (a cone of blood sausage with an egg yolk perched on top, studded with raisins and accompanied by a swipe of apple compote) that you will find here.

We also had excellent salmon tartar and wonderful torrijas (Basque bread pudding).

Quite a few pintxo bars are closed for the summer holidays, around the last week of June and the first week of July, and also on Sundays and Mondays. They are also swamped if a festival (e.g., film, jazz, etc.) is in town, so consider that when booking.

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