ANDALUCÍA - A DAY TRIP FROM SEVILLA TO CARMONA FOR A TAPAS TOUR
Updated: Oct 25
A DAY TRIP FROM SEVILLA TO CARMONA
Carmona stands on the Los Alcores ridge, overlooking the vast, fertile plains of the Vega del Corbones in Andalucía. The surrounding countryside is dominated by olive groves and fields of cereals, which have long played an important role in the local economy. The city also has a tradition of livestock farming and holds its annual fair, the Feria de Carmona, in May.
Carmona is one of the most historic towns in southern Spain, with a history stretching back some 5,000 years. Its compact old town is easy to explore on foot and a living museum of the civilisations that have shaped it, including the Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and Christians. Today, Carmona has a population of around 30,400, with its historic centre retaining much of its original character.
The impressive Puerta de Sevilla, one of the town’s most recognisable landmarks, once formed part of its fortified defences and remains a principal entrance to the old town.
The Puerta de Sevilla tells Carmona’s turbulent history through its ancient stonework. Its foundations date back to the Carthaginian period, with successive generations of Romans, Moors and Christians adding to and modifying the fortifications.
Each civilisation left its mark, making the gateway a remarkable reminder of the town’s long history of conquest and change. Bar La Muralla (The Wall) is ideally positioned for admiring this impressive monument over a drink.
Do not leave Carmona without trying its famous torta inglesa, a traditional cake made with sponge, puff pastry, and cabello de ángel (sweet pumpkin preserve), topped with icing sugar and cinnamon. According to local tradition, the nuns of the Convento de Santa Clara make some of the best.
Ring the convent bell, and the nuns will bring your cake to the door.
After walking through the Puerta de Sevilla, we made our way up to the Plaza de San Fernando for the first part of our little tapas tour, and our first stop at
BAR GOYA
Calle Prim 2, 41410 Carmona
+34 954 14 30 60
Several cafés and restaurants surround the square, but this was our favourite, offering an excellent-value lunchtime set menu for just €12, with plenty of dishes to choose from.
The menu offered plenty of tempting choices, from savoury gazpacho and roast red mullet to tooth-numbingly sweet rice pudding.
We settled on tuna, tomato, and papas aliñás, a traditional Andalusian potato salad, and enjoyed it at the bar.
We then moved on to: EL TABLAO
Plaza de San Fernando 10, 41410 Carmona.
This place has received quite a few negative reviews concerning its prices and service. However, we only stopped for the special of the day: setas silvestres (wild mushrooms), supposedly picked that very morning in the surrounding countryside. The portion was reasonably generous, cost €12 and was very good. We also enjoyed three cañas (small beers).
Walking around the square.
We came across some happy ladies dancing.
After a bit of dancing, we walked to La Almazara.
The bar didn’t offer tapas on weekends, so we didn’t eat. However, it looks like a nice place.
LA ALMAZARA DE CARMONA
Calle Santa Ana 33, 41410 Carmona
+34 954 19 00 76
Housed in a former olive oil mill, this restaurant features a bustling tapas bar and an elegant dining room that blends contemporary and traditional styles. The menu offers classic dishes alongside modern creations.
We then made our way to Casa Palacio de Carmona, a historic palace hotel I had read about in a Michael Portillo article in The Times. Unfortunately, we were disappointed to find it had been closed for over a year. Update October 2026: Casa Palacio de Carmona is once again advertised as a hotel, although its current operating status has not been independently confirmed.
CASA PALACIO DE CARMONA Five Stars
Calle Miraflores de Santa María 1, 41410 Carmona
+34 954 19 10 00
Michael Portillo has hosted lavish birthday parties amid the elegantly faded grandeur of Casa Palacio de Carmona. Built in 1561, the palace features Moorish architectural influences and four interior courtyards. With its charmingly antiquated plumbing and rooms filled with the owner’s furniture and books, the hotel has a wonderfully eccentric character. Its small swimming pool is surrounded by fragrant jasmine and orange trees.
From there, we stumbled on and into, EL TABANCO DE CARMONA
Hermana Concepción Orellana 2, 41410 Carmona
+34 954 19 62 00
Located within the Hotel Alcázar de la Reina, the restaurant offered a traditional hotel-style dining experience, with crisp white tablecloths and an elegant terrace overlooking the swimming pool.
The bar offers a selection of tapas, wines and spirits. We sampled a few tapas at the bar, including espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas). The food was pleasant enough, although nothing particularly memorable.
CASA CURRO MONTOYA
Calle Santa María de Gracia, 13, 41410 Carmona, Sevilla
+34 657 90 36 29
Another interesting restaurant serving good food, although tapas are available only at the bar, with the tables reserved for those ordering from the full menu.
On the way to the parador, we passed RESTAURANTE LA YEDRA
Calle Gral. Freire, 6, 41410 Carmona, Sevilla
+34954144525
Just a few metres from the Parador, this charming whitewashed house offers lunch and dinner in a delightful setting, with an unexpected patio tucked away beyond the entrance. Owner-chef Mónica serves traditional Andalusian cuisine with a contemporary twist.
We then headed to the Alcázar de Arriba, then on to the stunning Parador de Carmona.
PARADOR DE CARMONA Four Stars
Alcázar 41410 Carmona.
+34 954 14 10 10
The King Pedro I fortress is located at the highest point of Carmona.
Once a Moorish alcázar and later a Christian fortress, the building has witnessed centuries of Carmona’s turbulent history. In 1649, it was used as a hospital during a devastating outbreak of plague and, remarkably, in 1942, reportedly served as a Nazi military camp.
Today, you can sit on the Parador’s terrace, enjoy a café con leche, listen to the gentle hiss of cicadas, and gaze across the same magnificent landscape kings and generals have admired for centuries.
We had a slow walk back down to our departure point, with time to take in the spectacular sunset.
We also came across a religious procession making its way through the streets from the Parroquia de San Pedro (Church of St Peter).
On our way to the bus stop, we stopped at a busy café to try Carmona's famous torta inglesa. As mentioned earlier, it was absolutely delicious.
We had planned to travel by bus from Sevilla to Carmona and back, but unfortunately, the hotel gave us incorrect information, leaving us no option but to take a taxi, which cost €60.
Thankfully, we managed to catch the bus back to Sevilla, and the return journey took around 40 minutes and cost just €2.90 per person. Interestingly, the journey time was very similar between the taxi and the bus.
Here is a bus timetable for future reference!
Carmona is a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts, but even if history isn't your thing, you’ll find plenty of excellent places to eat, drink, and soak up the atmosphere of this charming Andalusian town.
You can follow us here;
INSTAGRAM - @renoirspanishguides
YOUTUBE - Renoir Spanish Guides
MIXCLOUD MUSIC - Mikeyb
TIKTOK - Renoir Spanish Guides
TWITTER - @RenoirGuides
FACEBOOK - Renoir Spanish Guides - Food, Drink & Places
To help us keep the blog AD-FREE, you could buy us a coffee.
Please click on the link below ☕. Thank You.
